2013年5月19日星期日

Great Fashion: what is the best fashion brand Chanel ago


  There are long queues at the Chanel boutique on Rue Cambon in Paris. Galeries Lafayette, the story is the same. Crowds of buyers lining up in the Chanel boutique shop. Same as Chanel concession in the spring, another Parisian department store. And in fact,
When summer begins, as the queues at the Chanel stores around the world: London, New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai and elsewhere.

Chanel is not the only brand to attract the masses. Sometimes the outer lines of Louis Vuitton are longer. But these queues are easier to explain. This includes tourists from the Far East, Japan and increasingly China, want to buy the bag with easily recognizable LV monogram. For many Chinese, the line on the Champs-Elysées, the product is not important. They will buy anything as long as it has the monogram.

But Chanel is difficult to explain. Yes, one or two handbags emblematic (of 2.55 for example) and therefore easily recognizable. But most of the properties for sale have nothing like the ubiquitous Louis Vuitton Monogram canvas makes it so attractive for the Chinese and bootleggers. Much of it is not easy to identify such as Chanel, unless you know where to look (a clip here, there are a string) and a bag for the bag know, Chanel is more expensive than Vuitton. Moreover, there is the wear. At Vuitton, even at peak times, the rooms of this stock clothes are sparsely populated. But Chanel, clothes are often the point.

So what explains the power of the brand? Why do people pay so much for clothes and Chanel accessories? And why, despite the lines outside stores, not Chanel, as opposed to, say, Vuitton, its brand get quality for the most demanding people, the clothes and accessories that can look elegant and timeless buy?

Ask anyone at Chanel the secret of success of the brand and they will give you answers that, while accurate, do not tell the whole story: Chanel products are manufactured to high standards, they tend to last they contain a certain amount of know- how, Karl Lagerfeld makes women's clothing is a genius and it is a heritage that dates back to Coco Chanel herself.

http://www.hindustantimes.com/Images/popup/2013/5/Coco.jpgAh yes heritage. No fashion house perpetuates the cult of its founder as busy as Chanel did. Most people who buy Dior do not know that Christian Dior was a real person in those days. The link to the original company today Vuitton Louis Vuitton is always thin and Gucci advertising published passionate fight against the Gucci family, brought in land their members to kill each other before bankrupt and bought by the Arabs. (Currently, the house is owned by the French and Italians were not large share in it - certainly not the Gucci family).

I remembered the legacy of Chanel, when I think of the new Culture Chanel exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris went last week. The exhibition is divided into two parts. The first consists of paintings, letters and articles that have to do with the life of Coco Chanel. Jean-Louis Froment, the expert of the art exhibition curator (Chanel gave him total control), emphasizes that the life of Coco Chanel found inspiration for his creativity available. Her love of rich men (often British or German), who contributed his friendships with artists such as Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and Pablo Picasso and his love of European history to the appearance that we identify with Chanel today. That may be true, and certainly, it helps the brand that is steeped in such a rich tradition of art and culture.

But I felt a gap between the first half of the show with his memories of the young Coco and the second half was Chanel No. 5, his most famous creation and is still dedicated to the most famous perfumes in the world (as well as a huge international bestseller with an advertising campaign, which is now led by Brad Pitt). We are to believe that No. 5 was the distillation of all the experience of Coco Chanel and her perfume came from his own life.

There is a line that procurement and that the ability to rise above Vuitton Chanel, Dior, Gucci and other fashion brands. (Only Hermes is generally regarded as his equals in the hierarchy of the mode). Except it is not so easy. To start, Coco Chanel did not design or create Chanel No. 5 After she opened her business, she asked called a perfumer Ernest Beaux to invent a perfume for her. Fine comes with many samples and the story goes that Coco chose the fifth sample, hence the name 5

Neither Coco Chanel had the scent. It has always been for her by the Wertheimer family who've been in the perfume business, giving him a share of the profits. When the Nazis occupied France during World War II fled Wertheimer, the Jews, to America, where they continued to No. 5 (in New Jersey!). Coco turned against them, took a Nazi lover and have tried their property confiscated because they were Jews.

When the war ended with the defeat of the Nazis, Chanel fled to Switzerland, to the shame of being a collaborator to escape and Wertheimer is No. 5, without any intervention on his part. Finally, in the mid-fifties, the Wertheimer Coco is a relatively generous offer: she could return to France and continue the production of clothing under the brand Chanel. But they are entrepreneurs. Coco would be an annual payment. Since that day, the Wertheimer had all the Chanel, but remained obsessively low profile.

In the sixties, as haute couture is dying (started at Yves Saint Laurent designer ready-to-wear), lay the fate of Chanel took a bath and he is not much more than perfume business. His bottom line was completely dependent of the smell of No. 5 When Coco died in 1971, his reputation as a couturier will survive him and apparel company continued the slide that began during the last years of his life.

The House of Chanel revived and moved to perfume hired in the 1980s by Wertheimer Karl Lagerfeld to design clothes. Since Lagerfeld has a masterful job of updating the style of Coco bases and turning light colored clothes, year after year, with changes made to the inspiration of each season, while preserving the continuity of the Coco Chanel look.

Chanel is still privately owned by the Wertheimer owned, so we do not know how much have sales of apparel and accessories such as perfume comes. But I'm willing to bet that perfumes significantly to profitability. Unlike many other companies that use large enterprises to create fragrances for she has always designed its own Chanel perfume. His current perfumer Jacques Polge is a legend in the industry and all the new Chanel perfume that you are likely to see his work: Coco, Chance, Allure Blue Egoiste and various extensions of each (Sensual Allure, Platinum Egoiste, Black Coco, etc. ). Collaborating Centre Polge is immensely talented Chris Sheldrake, whose background includes niche fragrances (many for the Serge Lutens line).

You've probably never or Polge and Sheldrake Ernest Beaux Wertheimer heard or, for that matter. This is not the fault of Chanel. The house is a lot of credit to Polge and Sheldrake and all references to give No. 5 in the rule contains a reference to the role of beauty as Creator. (However, refusal to provide information about Wertheimer, deliberately).

The fact is that all Polge to speak very happy to say the creation of Blue or Black Coco, he is happier immersion in the legacy of Coco Chanel. Also, Exclusive, created a niche online sublime fragrances Polge and Sheldrake in recent years, taking all their names of references to the life of Coco to his villa La Pausa, Coromandel screens after they have been more in her apartment and so on. And Wertheimer, Coco seem quite extraordinary to any ill-will on the way they handled. They are not yet ready to accept the credit for his return from exile in the 1950s, reinventing and Chanel in the 1980s. They prefer to remain anonymous.

It is to a certain extent, a generous strategy. For all his faults as a human being, Coco was a remarkable woman and his legacy deserves to live, as it does in Lagerfeld riffs on the eyes and the continuing success of No. 5. But on another level, it is also a wise strategy. Almost everyone who Chanel Coco on sale in worship and in the suggestion that the house is a natural extension of his original work in the 1920s, is all about. The combination of these historic brand and product excellence Chanel works perfectly. This is why buyers are lining the Chanel stores. And that's why Chanel maintains its position at the top of the totem fashion.

This is an incredible story. And its root is the legendary perfume continues to sell steadily for nearly a century. Some houses survive on their monograms. Chanel has thrived because of a divine fragrance: the perfect combination of jasmine, rose, sandalwood, citrus and aldehydes ever. The Culture Chanel exhibition is open until 5 Opened in June at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris



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